Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Monday, November 24, 2014

Italy part 2, from Trento to Rimini

+1750km

Leaving the Dolomites was like to leave home the second time for both of us. Goodbye nonno, nonna and everybody. Thank you for everything and hope to see you all again soon.



So, november 5th, after almost 3 weeks of "beautiful life" with warm cosy bed and wonderful weather, we took up again our handlebars. It rained like cats and dogs but we were, in some way, too excited to feel the asphalt again to postpone the departure. We also wanted to test our "rain-proof" materials. And also the road is supposed not to be hard but a lot of downhill.

And it was a bad experience. I once told you how I felt uneasy to go down the road in the dark, well it is worse under the rain, especially after some time, our brakes were completely ruined. It was scary!!!
The material is "proofed" for 4 hours under the rain. But we had to ride for almost 5 hours, so we got quite wet (and cold) when we finally got to Trento. Brrrr. We promised to ourselves that unless it's really inevitable, we wouldn't hit the road on a rainy day again.

Well, the positive thing about the raining-rolling is that we saw wonderful views in a very different angle. Imagine those grandiose mountains covered with shining bright yellow and orange (leaves) trees under a heavy threatening grey sky. We didn't take any pictures, too concerned about the road and also too lazy to rummage among our bagage..... It was a odd feeling of going to Trento by bike, the place we had been to by car just a few days ago (it was damn faster and more comfortable by car, I tell you ....)

After Trento, we headed to Ferrara and had 2 successive nights of wild camping. Guessed we had to practice a bit before going really "into the wild". It was OK in fact, I just missed a bit the hot shower :-) :-)


In Ferrara, we succeeded to synchrony with Alessio's mum's schedule. Such a pleasure to meet again in this beautiful city







We crossed Verona on our way, always under a bit of rain. Juliet's house was soooo full of tourists that we didn't bother to stop by: caressing her breasts for whatever luck it may bring didn't seem appealing to us :-) :-)


                               (Verona's coliseo) 

November 11th 2014


Direction Bologna,  "the fat city" which is just some 50km away from Ferrara. Such a boiling city, with crows of students and young noisy people :-) :-) We liked it to stroll about in its sparkling streets, under its long porticoes, to take unexpected turns in unknown corners just to find ourselves again in the middle of an another "hype" piazza. 




There was a chocolat fair when we arrived in Bologna


But it was to see bella Ericuccia that we were here. We also experienced the extraordinary hospitality of Giulia who let us use freely her cosy apartment during our bolognese stay



From there, we took the train (yes, it happens that we do not cycle!!!) to Florence, the birth place of Renaissance, not only to visit the famous Duomo or to eat some lamprodotto or to see "Madonna with  the Child" in 50 different ways in Uffizi

 
or to buy window-shop some fancy jewelries on the Ponte Vecchio


But also to see some friends, so dear to our hearts



(With Pippo, a comrade in arms during their "military service" at Trussardi)
                            


(With Tommy, Gab-Gab and La Mita)



(Who is ze boss here??)



(And Peter, Alessio's first Chef, the one to whom Alessio owes his entrance into the gastronomy's world)

We were so delighted to see them all, to feel the friendship's warmth. But, "every season has an end", we had to leave, even it was hard to hear Gab-Gab murmuring "are you sure, dears? Are you sure?"

So tuesday November 18th, we headed back to Bologna, spent a last night there.

November 19th, after a huge breakfast of 500gr of pasta for two, we took a 100 km ride to arrive to Ravenna, the mosaic capital. 

                     
                                           (the baptism of Jesus)

Here, we were received by Massimo, our host from Couch Surfing. A very nice guy.
And we met up again with Alessio's mum. Seems like we could never say good-bye. 



Hum, I can hear people chucking and smiling "oh, la mamma italiana and her son!!!!". Well, they are not really the Italian archetype. Her mother takes always great cares of us without feeding us with huge pasta plates :-) Alessio doesn't speak with his hands (and not a womanizer neither, hopefully :-) :-) ). In fact, they are from the part of Italy that belonged to Austria before the WWI. 

November 21th 2014

We set sail, or rather handlebars to Faenza. It was a detour to see some long time friends.


In Faenza, we had a lovely evening with Lorenzo and his family. Simona was so kind to ask her friend in Rimini to host us. It was a salvation because we had no answer from Couch Surfing nor Warm Shower and the region seems not very easy for wild camping.
So the next day, November 22th, after multi good bye, we left Faenza. On the way, we made an detour to Cesenatico to pay an hommage to Pantani, aka The Pirate, one of the biggest cyclists of history, the Italian pride, died 10 years ago. "He was murdered because he won all the time", said to me a signore met at the cemetery



In Rimini, we were convinced by Raphaella and Andrea to stay one more day to discover more this so crowded seaside city in summer time. They are so kind to us. And the little Agata is such a sweet and fun girl and we can not help falling under her charm.



Tomorrow is an another day! We hope to arrive to Senigallia, an another town on the Adriatic coast. With no clue where to sleep this time! Please, pray for us that the wild camping would be easy :-) :-)

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Italy part 1 - Potatoes in the Dolomites

+1300km or some 5% of road covered!!!!

Thursday, Oct 16

As promised, Alessio let us take the train from Innsbruck to Brennero. Those 40mn in train saved us probably 3 hours of suffering as the Astrian-Italian border is a horrible high pass, too hard to cover especially when we still have 100km after that.

So we sit comfortably in the train for the first 40km and started cycling around 11AM. We still have the cycling path for most of the first 80km. The nice weather is still with us. It was easy util we got out of Vipiteno. Then, it was the most horrible pass ever (I know that lots of worse things are still to come but this one was hard...). We struggled during 1h45 on a never ending uphill where I passed the worst tunnel, the longest 450m ever of my life, tunnel of which every meter was gained in pain and fear. I had to stop 2 or 3 times when cars approached because I couldn't even hold my handlebars straight.

Our suffering ended finally in Castelrotto after some 90km. The deliverance came along with 10km of downhill till Fie allo Schiliar. The counter showed 100,56km when we finally reached Alessio's mum's house. It was for the first time that we exceeded the fateful limit of 100km.Here, we had 2 relaxing days with nice walks in forests, good traditional sud-tyrol food, wine and hospitality. 





Saturday Oct 18

We left Fie around 5:30 PM. Alessio's mom took us through some horrible passes, from the car's window, I look out and feared for what it might be if I had to cycle over all that.

We started cycling for real :-) when the sun already set, the Rosengarten had lost its final flamboyant reflection and become paler and paler peaks under the darkened sky. 

We went downhill for most of the time of those 15km but I had to confess that I felt quite uncomfortable going down the curving road in the dark. I particularly hated cars arriving from the opposite direction with their dazzling lights. Fortunately they are not so many....

We arrived finally at home a bit after 7 PM. Here we started two weeks of "usual holidays" of hiking 


cycling


picking mushrooms


wonderful home-made food






going out with friends.... 

The Dolomites are simply an wonder. The hikes are sometimes quite challenging but I could not help myself from being amazed and feeling so lucky in front of such impressive views. 






The weather, as usual, is magnificent with beautiful honey-like sunshine; I feel like I could almost taste its sweetness. 
One negative point is that our budget doesn't allow us fancy restaurants anymore :-( :-(. But I think I should draw a cross on that matter (snif snif)

We decided to stay here for an another week, so still some more days before we hit the road again!!!!